John Elle's AMC front spring perch bushing fix

One of the things that's unobtainable for AMC cars (small chassis, 69 up) is the rubber-bushed spring perch, and they all go bad. Luckily, John Elle worked out a replacement using urethane bushings. It assumes the metal parts are OK, but they usually are. This fix seems to be well accepted.

I did this fix on my 1970 Hornet project car; to the right is a partially-assembled version, and here the assembly can be seen. It had 40,000 miles on it when I sold the car, with no problems to that time.

What follows is an emailed description of the fix.


From: "Todd & Kari Jesme" 
Subject: Re: Spring seat bushings...
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 18:17:23 -0600

Keleigh,
below is a message John Elle sent me a couple years ago.  I followed his
instructions and it worked out perfect, as planned.

Todd Jesme
Minnesota

"Todd, If you look at the lower spring mount it mounts on the
upper control arm by two bolts. The spindle is what is bolted
to the upper control arm and it goes through the lower spring
mount encased in rubber. If it is bad you will have to replace
or repair it. It is made of unobtainium. I have seen them metal
to metal as the rubber has died.

If  you call up Performance Suspension Components on 3001
N. 35th Ave.  Phoenix Arizona 85017. Info 602-272-4085  or Order:
1-800-572-3768 and ask for Spring bushing #ENE2048G  you can
get a Polyurethane bushing that will work. Order 2 per side for
a total of 4 to be used on the front end of the car. They will
cost about $1.75 per/bushing for a total of $6.80 per/front end
plus tax (if applicable) and shipping.To install them you must
remove the spindle assembly by pressing out the to mounting
bolts and then press the spindle through the existing rubber
bushing and clean out all of the old dead rubber and install the
replacement bushings on each side and press the spindle back
in and install the mounting bolts. It will go together easier
than it comes apart. It will drop into the upper arm and the
shoulder of the new bushings will fit down inside the cavity of
the control arm to insure that these parts will not walk out of
place. This works out real well for me and I think that it will
for anyone else.  Make sure that you used the lubricant that
comes with these things as it is really slippery and icky as
hell but it does help prevent squeaks.  While you have them on
the line also ask for the generic polyurethane ball joint dust
shields and the dust shields to use on the tie rod ends etc.
They will last forever if you use them instead of the dust
shields that come with your rebuild pieces. I have had all of
the ball joint dust shield fail inside of a year. I never had
that happen with OEM pieces but sure as toot'in, I am not going
to have it happen again. I just found out about these pieces
about a year ago.  Good luck John T Elle"